Bike-Packing into Shadow Lake Lodge in Banff National Park

It’s not often that I suggest we treat ourselves to a boujee backcountry adventure, but when Shadow Lake Lodge advertised a “Summer Solstice Special” during summer equinox… I jumped to it! This opportunity involved a one-night stay at the facility, rather than the regular minimum two-night stay. Although it was the same price per night, I figured we could soak in the luxury guest experience for half the cost.

At this point in time, Indy was one year old and was napping twice daily. He was also mastering the art of walking, and with this skill came his need to impose autonomy. Fair enough! As a result, my husband and I kept the itinerary fairly simple: We wanted to give him as many opportunities to cruise around and explore independently once we reached our destination.

At a Glance:

Trailhead: Red Earth Creek trailhead
Distance: 14 kilometres one-way
Accessibility: Hiking, biking, snow-shoeing and cross-country/backcountry skiing
Amenities: As a catered backcountry lodge, it includes mostly everything. See here for a suggested packing list.
Reservations at: Shadow Lake Lodge

On the day of our departure, we ensured that he had a solid first nap in his crib since we knew we couldn’t control whether he would take his second nap on-the-go. While he was snoozing, we loaded up the vehicle with both our mountain bikes, the front-rider bike seat, the Osprey Poco Plus child carrier, and our 60-litre Osprey Aether AG backpack packed with our belongings. As soon as he woke up, we bounced out of town, fed him lunch at the parking lot and took to the Redearth Creek trailhead.

The first 10.5 kilometer stretch is bike-accessible, starting off on a wide dirt road that eventually becomes a narrow, rocky trail towards the end. I rode with Indy on the front-rider bike seat and carried our lightly-packed child carrier on my back, while Chris rode up with our way-heavier backpack. Its gradual climb is quite the quad work-out, but alas: we made it to the junction! We locked up our bikes on the bike rack, loaded Indy into the child carrier and hiked the last 3.5 kilometers to the lodge.

We made it in the knick of time for “Afternoon Tea”. Chris and I enjoyed some well-earned sweet and savoury treats, while Indy frolicked in the open meadow in front of the cabins. Then, we were escorted by a friendly staff member to our cabin, which had already been kindly equipped with a pack-and-play in preparation for our arrival.

As soon as we dropped off our load, we dashed the 3-kilometer distance to Shadow Lake for a quick swim before dinnertime. The shoreline with Mount Ball as a backdrop was the perfect spot to strip Indy down, relax and watch him splash around joyfully.

We made it back to our cabin by 6:30 p.m., and put Indy down for the evening a tad earlier than usual since he had indeed skipped his second nap. The staff graciously offered to serve us dinner on our front porch, so that we could keep an ear out for any potential wake-ups. The exquisite multiple-course meal paired with the jaw-dropping sunset views from our cabin made for a really lovely (dare I say: romantic?) evening. We don’t get too many of those these days!

The next morning, Indy woke us up bright and early!... So we decided to make the best of it, and hike up to Gibbon’s Pass before breakfast time. The trail was still snow-covered, but very manageable with our shoes and hiking poles. As always, Gibbon’s Pass was breathtaking: sun-kissed and scattered with spring flowers.

Once we were done taking in the vistas, we turned around and rushed down the trail to find a pot of hot coffee on our front porch. We ate a delicious breakfast outdoors on the picnic table, then offered Indy a nap in the pack-and-play. It was a pretty short one, but it lined up perfectly with our check-out time. We bid adieu to our beautiful home for the evening, thanked the wonderful staff, and embarked on our hike/bike ride home.

Overall, we had the most splendid time at Shadow Lake Lodge! In fact, we would 100% recommend the experience to families willing to spend a pretty dime for a lavishly worthwhile backcountry experience. If you are interested, I would advise you to:

Give the lodge a heads-up.
The manager was incredibly quick at replying to my emails. She kindly offered us both a pack-and-play for our cabin, and a high chair for mealtimes in the dining cabin. Even then, the staff pivoted to allow us to dine in the comfort of our own front porch since we had a busy toddler on our hands. So yes - I highly recommend you politely let the staff know about your needs before and during your stay, as they are extremely helpful and accommodating.
Use a front-rider bike seat.
In all honesty, the 440-meter elevation gain to Shadow Lake Lodge really put my legs to the test! I’m not sure I would have been able to make it had we decided to tow Indy in the chariot, instead of the front-rider bike seat. He was safely strapped in, helmeted up and seemed to manage comfortably on the rocky uphill (even with me huffing and puffing behind him). In fact, he was quite engaged with the scenery and did not complain once!
Limit your snacks.
Bring water and snacks for your bike/hike in, but stop right there!: Upon your arrival to the lodge, you will be fed to your heart’s content! As I mentioned, we enjoyed “Afternoon Tea”, dinner and breakfast - Each had our taste buds buzzing! What I didn’t yet mention is that they also provide a packed lunch for your adventures the following day. We ordered sandwiches, fruit, trail mix and cookies each, which was more than enough for our trip out.
Pack lightly.
Each cabin is well-equipped with beds, bedsheets, towels and water jugs, and offers power (two outlets available) and lighting. The washrooms (including hot showers!) are located in a separate facility, and are stocked with toilet paper. To boot, there are books and board games available (and sanitized in-between uses!) at the CPR cabin, where you can lounge on the couches and cozy up beside the fire. Considering all of this, there is no need to overpack. Go light!:
- Layers
- Footwear (indoor and outdoor)
- Toiletries
- Diaper change kit
- Sleep products for your baby (i.e. swaddle/sleep sack/white noise machine/soother)
- Feeding products for your baby (i.e. bottles/formula/straw cup/suction plate/bib)