Front Country Camping in Waterton Lakes National Park
Ask any member of my family “what is your favorite place in the world?” and Waterton Lakes National Park will undoubtedly top the list.
I have visited it almost every summer of my life! In fact, it’s where my love for camping and hiking was first nurtured. Now that I have two kids of my own, I would argue it’s the best mountain park for little ones. Sorry Banff, you know I love you! Waterton has a diverse selection of family-friendly activities and adventures that are easily accessed from the Townsite Campground. I am so excited to share some of my favourite things about this special spot with you! Here it goes:
Access
You could spend many days at this campground and never have to get back in your car! You can walk to almost anything and everything. There are several primo hikes that start directly from the campground including Bertha Falls & Lake, Alderson-Carthew (access to Alderson Lake, Carthew Lakes, the Summit and Summit Lake), Bertha Bay and Boundary Bay (both of which can also be accessed by canoe, if that’s more your style!). You can walk along the Lakeshore Trail into town and explore all it has to offer. Check out some of the things that I like to do in town below (sneak peak: there’s a splash park!) You can also bike along the Lakeshore Trail and then out of town on the Kootenai Brown Trail, a paved off-road trail that runs along the Entrance Parkway for 15 kilometers, ending at the Park Gate. For paddlers, your campsite won’t be more than 400 metres from the shore of Upper Waterton Lake. You really have it all here!
Natural Surroundings
The campground is hemmed in by natural features on three sides. On the north end, you’ll find Cameron Falls. On the south end, is Upper Waterton Lake. These two connect via Cameron Creek, which flows through the middle of the campground. In addition, on a slope to the west of the campground, you can witness the landscape changing in the wake of the Kenow Wildfire that raged through the park in 2017. It’s incredible to see how close to town it came without destroying a single building. Side note: The Crandell Mountain campsite (the other big campground in the park) burned in the fire and is in the process of being rebuilt, which makes campsites in Waterton even more in demand right now.
Having these features in and around the campground will keep kids of all ages entertained. I spent hours of my childhood watching the falls, skipping rocks on the lake and floating down the creek on inflatable tubes (and inevitably popping one; arguably, it’s not the best place for tubing, but it’s always fun while it lasts).
Great facilities and variety of sites
At first glance you may only see rows of RV’s, but you will find great tenting sites at this campground too, including some nice walk-in sites surrounded by grassy berms. The walk-in campsites are located in the H section of the campground and are approximately a 5-10 metre walk from the parking area. This campground has several cook shelters with built-in wood stoves which are great for eating, gathering, or playing cards during one of Waterton’s infamous storms (more on that later!). Washroom and shower facilities are relatively new, well-kept and numerous, meaning you never have to travel far with a toddler screaming “I NEED TO POOP!”.
Things to Do:
Hike, hike, hike
As with all of Canada’s Mountain Parks, the hiking here is world-class! There are hikes of all varieties. For little legs: Bertha Falls, Bear’s Hump and Red Rock Canyon are the obvious choices.
Bears Hump. For an expansive view of the town, the lake and surrounding peaks, hoof up this series of switchbacks.
2 kilometers round trip
240 metres elevation gain
Red Rock Canyon. For families with toddlers who are keen to hike (until they’re not!), this loop is a good fit. Walk the loop and then play in the water or enjoy a picnic lunch.
0.7 kilometre loop
29 metres elevation gain
Bertha Falls. This out-and-back hike starts at the Town Campground. There is a climb involved! If you have younger kids, it may be wise to bring along something like the Trail Magik carrier, for when their legs tire out. You can add onto this hike by continuing to Bertha Lake.
5.3 kilometres roundtrip
200 metres elevation gain
Bike
Waterton is very bike friendly! As mentioned above, you have over 15 kilometres of paved trail starting from the campground. You will also see bikes cruising along the parkway to Red Rock Canyon, as well as up and down the winding road to Cameron Lake. You can rent bikes (including the iconic Surrey Bike) at Waterton fixture: Pat’s. This store was one of the very first buildings in Waterton! The Surrey bike sits three riders on the bench and has a basket in the front to seat two small children. You’ll see visitors navigating these unique bikes all over town. It’s not a trip to Waterton without a spin in a Surrey!
Paddle
I am by no means an expert paddler, so this is not an extensive list. What I do know is that the relentless wind on Waterton Lakes can be a menace (making this an appealing spot for kite boarders!). For this reason, many people head up to Cameron Lake for a leisurely paddle. The boat house rents out canoes, SUPs, kayaks, row boats and pedal boats. One of my core childhood memories consists of sitting on the edge of this lake, watching my dad fish and wishing I was out in one of those pedal boats! For more experienced paddlers looking for bigger excursions, there is the option to paddle to either Bertha Bay or Boundary Bay backcountry campsites on Upper Waterton Lake. These sites are also accessible by foot!
Splash
There are endless options for splashing here. A few family-friendly favourites are Red Rock Canyon, Emerald Bay and the splash park!
Red Rock Canyon
This is the classic spot for a hot day. Scurry down the rocks and walk along the stream into the cool canyon. Venture away from the crowds and explore the layers of bedrock that make this spot so unique!
Emerald Bay
Waterton Lakes are very large and deep and glacier-fed, so the water is cold! It can also get very windy, so it’s not always the best spot for hanging out. However, there’s this little bay near the edge of town that has shallower water and is protected from the wind. Great for playing along the shore or cruising around on a paddle board.
Splash Park
Located in the heart of town, this recent addition to Waterton was a MIRACLE when I spent a week camping with my 11-month-old in +37 temps! This area also includes a playground with toddler and bigger kid equipment. There are picnic tables (some of which are shaded), as well as washrooms on site. Does it get any better?
Snack
As Waterton has grown in popularity, so have the snack choices! As a kid, I was all about Big Scoop Ice Cream Parlour and Welch’s Chocolate Shop (both of which are both still operating). Now, there are tons of great options to satisfy your hungry little hikers. Waffleton and Weiners of Waterton are guaranteed to be a hit with kids! Zum’s Eatery is my pick for lunch. Their menu is extensive and is sure to have something for everyone. The interior of the restaurant is very eclectic, making it the perfect setting for playing “eye spy”. The colourful decor creates a good challenge, especially if you need to kill some time on a rainy day! For my fellow coffee lovers (a.k.a. tired parents!), Windflower Corner Cafe is the perfect place to grab a coffee and breakfast bagel to go.
If you time it right, you can feast on a local delicacy: Saskatoon berries! The bushes are ample and abundant in the area, and normally ready to harvest in early July. Make lots of noise so that bears know you are there, as they love these berries too!
Spot
Okay I can’t make guarantees on this one, but I have seen more wildlife in Waterton than any other park so keep your eyes peeled. Also, PLEASE CARRY YOUR BEAR SPRAY!
If you are set on seeing some wildlife, drive the Bison Paddock Loop Road, just north of the park gate on Highway 6. This short, scenic route, passes through fescue grasslands inside the park's summer section of the bison paddock. Bison roam within the fenced enclosure. Waterton Lakes National Park has maintained a herd of plains bison (consisting of 5-20 individuals) in its bison paddock since 1952.
Other things to know before you go!
The weather in Waterton is notorious for being extreme - extremely windy, extremely hot, or extremely rainy - and it can change extremely quickly! Be prepared, but also know the campground and town are well set up for the weather. There are shelters for cooking in when it’s windy; cold water to splash in when it’s hot; and entertaining shows at the old movie theater in town when it’s wet!
Waterton is a very small town with mostly tourism-focused establishments. Bring your essentials from home, as diapers, certain snacks, and other such things may be hard to find here. If you do, they will come at a premium. The closest larger centre is Pincher Creek, which is about a 45-minute drive away. You will probably pass through it on your way to the park, so make sure to fill up your gas and and pick up any last-minute supplies.
If your crew prefers less crowds and more snow for your adventures, one of the Alpine Club of Canada’s newest huts is located in Waterton. The Cameron Lake Cabin was built in 1929 and is the oldest surviving warden cabin in the park. It was acquired by the ACC and opened to the public in 2016. This hut is winter access only, open for the months of December through April. With a 3 kilometre approach, it is one of the easiest huts for families to reach. The trail is packed and track-set allowing for easy cross-country skiing and level ground for towing sleds. I haven’t had the chance to visit this hut yet, but I am hoping to check it out next winter!
Well… That's me trying to wrap 30+ years of experience and memories into one post! (See below for a series of photos of myself/my family through the years). I hope this helps you make some great family memories in Waterton Lakes National Park too.